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Plugable USB-C to Gigabit Ethernet Adapter
$22.95 USD
SKU: USBC-TE1000Amazon Rating : (267 Reviews)
Features
- Fast Gigabit Speed—This USB C ethernet adapter adds a wired Gigabit Ethernet port to your USB Type-C and Thunderbolt 3 systems. Faster and more reliable than wi-fi connections up to 1Gbps (10/100/1000Mbps). Link and Activity LEDs
- Plug and Play—RJ45 to USB-C cable offers automatic plug-and-play installation with no additional download needed on Windows 11, and 10, macOS, iPhone 15 / Pro / Pro Max, and ChromeOS. Powered by the Realtek RTL8153 chipset for proven, best-in-class compatibility
- Small and Flexible—Small, lightweight Thunderbolt 3 to ethernet adapter is perfect for travel and constructed with cutting edge materials including a flat, flexible printed circuit cable, providing durability while accommodating any workspace
- Compatibility—Great fit for USB-C Macbook Pro, Windows 11, 10, 8.x, 7, macOS, iPhone 15 / Pro / Pro Max, Dell XPS, fully compatible with Thunderbolt 3, and MacBook Air. Not compatible with gaming consoles. Driverless installation in most modern Operating Systems
- 2-Year Coverage, Lifetime Support—Every Plugable product, including this USB C to ethernet adapter, is covered against defects for 2 years and comes with lifetime support. If you ever have questions, contact our North American-based team - even before purchase
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High speed internet on any USB-C Laptop
The Plugable USB C Ethernet Adapter (USBC-TE1000) is a great choice for users to add Gigabit Ethernet to their computer via USB Type-C. Built on the Realtek RTL8153 chipset, this adapter is capable of speeds of 10/100/1000Mbps for fast, stable Ethernet access. Measuring in at 1.8in x 1in x .5in (4.6cm x 2.3cm x 1.3cm), the small, compact size is great for travel and flexible flat cable allows the adapter to adapt to your workspace.
This adapter provides a true plug and play experience without the need for additional driver installation. This makes the USBC-TE1000 a perfect match for macOS, iPhone 15 / Pro / Pro Max, Windows 11 and 10, Linux, and ChromeOS.
Common uses include:
- Adding wired gigabit network support to macOS, Windows, Linux, and Chrome OS systems
- Replacing or upgrading existing network adapters
- Adding additional network interfaces, and transferring files peer-to-peer over Ethernets
- Improving speeds compared to older 10/100 adapters and most wireless networks
Please note, this adapter is NOT a solution for connecting USB devices like printers, hard drives, etc to a network. This adapter cannot be used to share Ethernet, WiFi, or data between multiple devices. This adapter cannot be used for Preboot Execution Environment (PXE).
High-Speed Performance
A wired connection can provide increased stability and speed versus WiFi, and provide a better experience for streaming, gaming, and other network activities.
(Exact speeds are dependent upon factors like the speed of your service, and network equipment.)
Improved Chipset
Inside the USBC-TE1000 is a Realtek RTL8153 chipset for fast 10/100/1000Mbps network speeds and works with almost all USB-C 3.1, 3.0, and 2.0 hosts.
Plug and Play
Driverless installation makes for a great plug and play experience. You can immediately start using your adapter without any downloads or installs. Perfect for systems that require driver approval.
Flexible Flat Cable
The adapter is equipped with a flat, printed circuit cable that allows for a small footprint and flexibility. The compact and easy to use flat profile enables the adapter to hug surfaces and take advantage of tight spaces. This means the cable itself is more sturdy and less prone to breakage from bending like traditional, round, copper cables
Compatible Systems
- Windows 11 / 10 / 8.x / 7
- macOS 10.6 - 10.15 and above
- iPhone 15 / Pro / Pro Max
- Chrome OS
- Thunderbolt 3 Systems
- USB-C Systems
Incompatible Systems
- Gaming Consoles from any manufacturer
- Android devices
- iOS devices
- Streaming Devices from any manufacturer
Plugable Gigabit Ethernet Comparison Chart
This comparison chart looks at Plugable's line of USB Gigabit Adapters across important categories to help you choose the one for your needs
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
USB Type |
USB 3.0 (Type A) |
USB-C |
USB-C |
USB 3.0 (Type-A) USB-C |
Network Speed |
1 Gigabit |
1 Gigabit |
1 Gigabit |
2.5 Gigabit (See product page for details) |
Thunderbolt 3 Compatibility |
No |
Yes |
Yes |
Yes |
System Compatibility |
Compatible with Windows, Linux, and ChromeOS. (Driver download may be required) Not supported for macOS |
Compatible with Windows, Linux, and ChromeOS. (Driver download may be required) Not supported for macOS |
Compatible with modern versions of macOS, Windows, Linux and Chrome OS |
Compatible with modern versions of macOS, Windows, Linux and Chrome OS (Driver download may be required) |
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You can always contact support if you need help too!
Understanding and Troubleshooting Network Performance
Computer networking is a complex topic. In this article, we'll be taking a deep dive on the nuances of network performance for those who need some additional explanation while striving to be concise, and to educate users of various experience levels relating computer hardware and computer networking.
If you just need to know how to perform a network performance test/benchmark, jump down to configuring iPerf.
Core Network Concepts
LAN vs WAN
With regards to network performance, it is crucial to first separate whether an issue is with Wide Area Network (WAN) performance, or if the issue is with Local Area Network (LAN) performance.
Your LAN is essentially the network inside your home or business. Many homes use a combination modem/router device provided by their Internet Service Provider (ISP). In some cases, especially in businesses, you may have a separate modem and router, along with other equipment connecting to the router such as a network switch.
Your modem, and the connection it establishes to your ISP—whether through coaxial cable, fiber, phone lines, or long-range wireless—essentially marks the point between the WAN and the LAN. The connection your modem makes to your ISP is the WAN, and any devices you connect through your router behind that modem belong to the LAN.
Link Rate
Almost every type of connection your computer makes to any piece of hardware will have a link rate of some kind. The link rate establishes how fast data can possibly be transferred across any given connection, but it does not guarantee how fast the hardware on either end of the connection will actually transfer data.
The concept of link rates, and their related bottlenecks, is likely best conveyed by giving an example of what connections might be involved in transferring a file from one computer on your LAN to another.
- 800Mbps—The file source is a USB 3.0 thumb drive capable of 100MB/s (800Mbps) read/write.
- 480Mbps—The USB 3.0 thumb drive is plugged into a USB 2.0 port on the PC, which has a maximum throughput of 480Mbps
- 1000Mbps—PC1's Ethernet connection establishes 1Gbps (1000Mbps) link to the router via Ethernet
- 300Mbps—The router connects to a second PC (we'll refer to this as PC2) via Wi-Fi, and it has established a 300Mbps link to the Wi-Fi adapter on PC2
- 480Mbps—The Wi-Fi adapter on PC2 is connected via a USB 2.0 port. The link rate of the USB connection to PC2 is at 480Mbps
- 6000Mbps—PC2 is going to store the file on an internal hard drive with a link rate of 6Gbps
- 1600Mbps—File Destination: SATA hard drive capable of 200MB/s (1600Mbps) read/write.
Following this chain, we see that 300Mbps is the slowest link rate established. This means that, regardless of the link rates established elsewhere, the absolute maximum the data can possibly be transferred is 300Mbps.
if we were to change the Wi-Fi connection to a wired Ethernet connection capable of 1Gbps, our performance bottleneck would then become the USB 2.0 connection to the USB drive where the file is stored.
Ports and Interfaces
Interfaces
A network interface represents connections, whether wired or wireless, that are made to form a network between devices.
Ports
Some may refer to physical hardware connections as "ports". For the purposes of networking, ports are logical constructs that can also be referred to as "network ports". Each network interface has 65,535 of these logical ports. Each port on a network interface is a separate data connection.
Benchmarking Network Adapter Performance
To properly benchmark network adapter performance, we need to:
- Use a simple LAN configuration
- Eliminate bottlenecks, especially link rate bottlenecks
Websites like speedtest.net, fast.com, and other performance tools in your web browser are going to use your WAN connection, and are not appropriate for determining if a network adapter is working well.
Transferring files from one computer to another on your LAN is typically not the best way to benchmark a network adapter. File transfers are bottlenecked by a number of things, including performance limitations of the disk the data is on, and often times a lack of establishing parallel network connections to perform the task.
One of the most accurate ways to benchmark network performance on a LAN is by using iPerf . To more effectively benchmark network adapter performance, it is best to establish a point-to-point connection between two PCs, rather than connecting through a router or switch.
Configuring iPerf
To test a connection using iPerf, you'll need at least two network interfaces, and preferably two computers. You'll also need to know the IP (Internet Protocol) address assigned to each network interface . One network interface will function as an iPerf server, and the other network interface will function as an iPerf client. Lastly, you'll need to download the version of iPerf 3.x that's appropriate for your computer's operating system and extract/install it .
Windows
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date drivers. Drivers for Plugable products can be found here.
- Download and extract iPerf for Windows
- Open Command Prompt
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
cmdin the window that appears - Search the Start Menu for
Command Prompt, and open it
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
- Navigate Command Prompt to the directory the directory where iPerf is located
- The
cdcommand is for 'change directory'- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
cd %USERPROFILE%\Desktop\iperf
- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
- The
- Run iperf in server mode via Command Prompt
iperf3.exe -s
macOS
- Usually it is best to install iperf on macOS using brew in Terminal
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date drivers
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in server mode
iperf3 -s
Linux
- Usually it is best to install iperf using the package manager in your Linux distro. For example, in Ubuntu, use
apt: sudo apt install iperf3
- Make sure the drivers for both network interfaces involved in the test are using up-to-date Drivers
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in server mode
iperf3 -s
Next, you'll need to run iPerf in client mode, targeting the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode. Additionally, we'll run the test for 30 seconds using -t 30 and with four parallel connections using -P 4. Running 4 parallel connections is optimal for saturating a network link.
Windows
- Open Command Prompt
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
cmdin the window that appears - Search the Start Menu for
Command Prompt, and open it
- Press Windows Key + R or + R, then enter
- Navigate Command Prompt to the directory the directory where iPerf is located
- The
cdcommand is for 'change directory'- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
cd %USERPROFILE%\Desktop\iperf
- If you have a folder named 'iperf' on your Windows desktop, you can reach it in command prompt with the command
- The
- Run iperf in client mode via Command Prompt (replace 192.168.0.200 with the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode)
iperf3.exe -c 192.168.0.200 -t 30 -P 4
macOS / Linux
- Open Terminal
- Run iPerf in client mode (replace 192.168.0.200 with the IP address of the server/interface where iPerf is running in server mode)
iperf3 -c 192.168.0.200 -t 30 -P 4
iPerf should start performing a network performance test. If the test fails to start, make sure that iPerf is not being blocked by your PC's/Mac's firewall.
Why iPerf is Ideal for Benchmarking
Unlike a file transfer, iPerf runs in memory on the PC and generates data to send using the CPU directly. This alleviates potential bottlenecks generated by storage devices, and allows you to explicitly control how many parallel connections are being used to transfer data rather than being unsure if parallel network connections are being used by other means.
Conclusion
There's a lot more to networking that isn't covered in this article, but we hope this helps explain enough to get an accurate measure of your network performance.
If you need assistance with your Plugable product that features network connectivity, please contact us for further assistance.
My Plugable product with wired Ethernet is no longer working on macOS. What can I do?
Please Note
The below guide is an advanced troubleshooting step, and we do not recommend doing so unless you are comfortable manually altering files on your Apple product running macOS. You may not be able to perform the below troubleshooting step if you are unable to execute administrative credentials on your laptop. Please reach out to our support first if you do not wish to attempt the below instructions. You can do so at Plugable.com/Support
How to delete a specific Ethernet adapter from your Network devices on macOS
- Click on the Apple logo in the top left corner of your primary monitor, and select ‘System Preferences’
- Next select ‘Network’ in the ‘System Preferences' window.
- In the now visible list, please select the Plugable Ethernet, or Thunderbolt Ethernet device that may not be working as expected.
- Once selected click on the minus button in the bottom left of the network window.
- Click on Apply in the bottom right.
- Next click on the plus button in the bottom left of the network window, and add the previously removed device.
- Click on Apply in the bottom right.
- Test to see if this has resolved the unexpected behavior, and assure that your Ethernet is now working.
- If this does not resolve the problem, please proceed to the next section (As noted previously the next section is for advanced users only!)
Manually erase your macOS Network Settings to fully reset the Network configuration
(Advanced! Click to reveal)
- Open the ‘Finder’ app, then in the ‘Go’ menu at the top of your screen select ‘Computer’
- Click on ‘Macintosh HD’ then Library, Preferences, SystemConfiguration
- Copy the file named ‘NetworkInterfaces.plist’ to your desktop as a backup of your current configuration.
- Delete the original version of the ‘NetworkInterfaces.plist’ located in the SystemConfiguration directory.
- Restart your Mac
- Login to your Mac, and return to System Preferences → Network
- If the list is now empty, please re-add the Plugable or Thunderbolt network adapter by clicking on the plus button in the bottom left of the Network window. Once done click on 'Apply'.
- Test to see if this has resolved the unexpected network behavior
I am still unable to get my Ethernet connection working on my Mac
If this is the case please reach out to our support team. When you do please include a diagnostic log gathered using our PlugDebug tool (instructions are provided on the PlugDebug page). If you are not able to gather the PlugDebug diagnostics do not worry we are still here to help! Please reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com or Plugable.com/Support with a detailed description of your problem, and the model of Plugable product you are using.
How To - Set a Network to Private or Public in Windows 10 & 11
The Windows Firewall may block some networking features when the local network is not set to Private. This article will describe the process for setting the local network, either wired Ethernet or Wi-Fi to be a Private network.
Windows 11
1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless
2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu
3 - On the left column select “Network & internet”
For Wired Networks
4 - Select the “Ethernet” option
5 - The connected network should be expanded, if not click on “Network Connected" to expand the section
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
For Wi-Fi Networks
4 - Select the “Wi-Fi” option
5 - Select your Wi-Fi network name “properties”
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
Windows 10
1 - Connect the computer to the network, either wired or wireless
2 - Open the Windows Settings - right-click on the Start Menu and select “Settings” from the pop-up menu
3 - Select “Network & Internet” fro the bottom section
4 - Select the “Ethernet” option from the left pane
5 - Select the “Connected” network from the right pane
6 - Select the “Network profile type” either “Public network” or “Private network” to suite your needs
Windows PowerShell
If the option does not show up in the Windows Settings GUI, or if you prefer to use the terminal.
1 - Open a new terminal: Right-click on the Start Menu and select “Terminal”
2 - Run the following command to list the available networks
Get-NetConnectionProfile
PS C:\Users\plugable> Get-NetConnectionProfile Name : Network InterfaceAlias : Ethernet Instance 0 InterfaceIndex : 7 NetworkCategory : Private DomainAuthenticationKind : None IPv4Connectivity : Internet IPv6Connectivity : NoTraffic
3 - Run the following command to set the network to Private
Set-NetConnectionProfile -Name Network -NetworkCategory Private
Where “Network” is the network name from step #2 and “Private” can be either “Public" or “Private”
How to Use Two External Displays with the Lid Closed on MacBook Air and MacBook Pro M3
Overview
With the release of Apple’s M3 CPU chips and the Sonoma 14.6 update your base MacBook Air and MacBook Pro systems with M3 chips can now host two external displays natively in clamshell mode. This guide will walk you through the process of setting up and using two external displays with the lid closed on your MacBook Air or MacBook Pro equipped with an Apple M3 chip.
Requirements
Before getting started, ensure you have the following:
- MacBook Air or MacBook Pro with an Apple M3 chip.
- macOS Sonoma 14.3 or later for an M3 MacBook Air or macOS Sonoma 14.6 or later for an M3 MacBook Pro.
- Two external displays with compatible video inputs (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C).
- A dock or graphics adapter can be used as well.
- External keyboard and mouse (wired or wireless).
- Power adapter or power source for your MacBook
- A docking station that provides adequate charge can be used in place of the native power adapter, be sure to check the wattage your dock provides.
Steps to Set Up Dual External Displays with the Lid Closed
1. Set Up Your External Keyboard and Mouse
- If you’re using a wired keyboard and mouse, connect them directly to your MacBook or Plugable dock.
- For wireless peripherals, ensure they are paired with your MacBook and functioning properly.
- An AC adapter/power cable of some kind will also need to be connected for clamshell mode to function properly. This adapter can be one from a docking station or the included Apple adapter.
2. Connect Your Displays
- Connect the first external display to your MacBook using the appropriate cable (e.g., HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C)
- Close your laptop’s lid.
- Connect the second external display using a similar method.
- Ensure both displays are powered on and set to the correct input source.
3. Configure Display Settings
- Open System Settings on your MacBook.
- Go to Displays.
- You should see both external displays listed. Arrange them according to your preference by dragging the display icons.
- Adjust the resolution, refresh rate, and other settings as needed.
4. Enable "Clamshell Mode" (Lid Closed Mode)
- With your external displays connected and set up, close the lid of your MacBook.
- Your MacBook will automatically switch to "Clamshell Mode," where the internal display turns off, and the external displays become your primary screens.
- Ensure your MacBook is connected to a power source to prevent it from entering sleep mode.
5. Check the Display Arrangement
- With the lid closed, check that the external displays are functioning as expected.
- If necessary, re-open the Displays settings to adjust the arrangement, resolution, or other preferences.
Troubleshooting Tips
- No Display on External Monitors: If the external displays are not showing anything, open the lid of your MacBook and check the connections.
- MacBook Sleeps When Lid Is Closed: Make sure your MacBook is connected to a power adapter. Clamshell Mode requires the MacBook to be plugged into an external power source.
- Performance Issues: If you experience lag or performance drops, try lowering the resolution or refresh rate of the external displays.
Thunderbolt Dock Users
With these steps, one can use Plugable Thunderbolt docks to enjoy a dual-display setup without the need for additional software installation. The dock leverages the native capabilities of the MacBook Air M3 and MacBook Pro M3, providing a straightforward and efficient solution for expanding your workspace with additional USB ports, audio, and ethernet (as well as the dual displays).
Additional Resources
If you should need any assistance with your setup, please feel free to reach out to our support team at support@plugable.com.
